Each quilt block shown on this website is made from a unique design. Most blocks are made up of 16 small square units, or squares, arranged in a 4 x 4 pattern. Many of these small square units are composed of 2 triangles sewn together into a square. All seams are 1/4 inch. The finished block size is 12 by 12 inches.
1. Sewing machine with thread and bobbin of the correct color
2. Rotary cutter
3. Mat board for cutting
4. Quilter's ruler (longer than a foot, of clear acrylic, and with a grid marked on it)
5. Scissors
6. Iron and ironing board
7. Fabric
| small squares | 3 1/2 inch square |
| small triangles* | 3 7/8 inch square cut diagonally into triangles |
| small rectangles | 3 1/2 by 6 1/2 inch |
| medium squares | 6 1/2 inch square |
| medium triangles | 6 7/8 inch square cut diagonally into triangles |
| medium rectangles | 3 1/2 by 9 1/2 inch |
| large squares | 9 1/2 inch square |
| large triangles | 9 7/8 inch square cut diagonally into triangles |
| large rectangles | 3 1/2 by 12 1/2 inch |
*For some quilters, the triangles cut from 3 7/8 inch squares are slightly too small. I recommend that you do this test: Cut just a few triangles from squares that are 3 7/8 inch. Sew them into squares, as discussed below. Measure them against a 3 1/2 inch square. If the squares made from triangles are smaller than 3 1/2 inches, try cutting triangles from 4 inch squares and sew them together into squares. After pressing, trim if necessary to 3 1/2 inch squares.
To avoid uneven shrinkage, I do not generally mix fabric types in a quilt top. For example, I do not use woolen squares and polyester squares in the same top. I do not usually pre-shrink fabrics.
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| Fig. 1. Cutting strips | Fig. 2. Removing selvages |
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| Fig. 3. Cutting squares | Fig. 4. Cut squares |
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| Fig. 5. Cutting triangles | Fig. 6. Cut triangles |
1. Press the fabric before cutting.
2. Fold the fabric in half bringing the selvages together.
3. Fold the fabric in half again in the same direction, bringing the folded edge to the selvages.
4. Place the folded fabric on the cutting mat and square it with the mat.
5. Place the quilter's ruler on top of the folded fabric with the ruler perpendicular to the folds in the fabric. Align the ruler with the grid on the mat and hold the ruler firmly in place with your non-cutting hand.
6. Hold the rotary cutter with your cutting hand and place it at the bottom edge of the ruler on the cutting line [Figure 1].
7. Make sure all parts of your hand are out of the path of the blade.
8. In a single stroke, apply firm downward pressure on the rotary cutter and push it away from you through the fabric and along the edge of the ruler. A rotary cutter can cut through up to 8 thicknesses of fabric.
9. Unfold the last fold in the strip of fabric you just cut, keeping the selvages together. Square the doubled strip with the mat and cut off the selvages [Figure 2].
10. Cut the doubled strip into squares, triangles, or rectangles, as discussed below.
Cutting Squares: Keeping the fabric square with the mat, cut strips into square segments of the appropriate dimensions [Figures 3 and 4]. For example, if you are cutting small squares, the strips will be 3 1/2 inches wide and the squares will be 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches.
Cutting Triangles: Cut the strips into square segments of the appropriate dimensions. For example, for small triangles, the squares should be 3 7/8 by 3 7/8 inches or 4 by 4 inches.* Lay the quilter's ruler diagonally across the squares from one point to the opposite point [Figure 5]. Cut the squares into two triangles [Figure 6].
Cutting Rectangles: Cut strips of appropriate width. Cut the strips into rectangles of the desired length.
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| Fig. 7. Squares laid out | Fig. 8. Squares together |
Lay out the pieces for the block and look at it. Would you change it? Would you substitute another color or rotate a square, etc.? If so, modify it and look at it again [Figure 7]. Slide the pieces together so they touch each other [Figure 8]. Look at it again. When you are satisfied, proceed with sewing.
I usually don't pay attention to the direction of the grain of the fabric, especially when working with triangles. This is up to you.
I do pay attention to the design of the fabric. For example, I sometimes run stripes in a particular direction.
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| Fig. 9. Chain stitch | Fig. 10. Trimmed corners | Fig. 11. Pressed triangles |
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| Fig. 12. Pressed seams | Fig. 13. Rows laid out | Fig. 14. Completed block |
1. All seams are 1/4 inch.
2. Backstitch the beginning and the end of each seam for each square.
3. Join pairs of triangles to form squares: With right sides together, sew two triangles together along hypotenuses in 1/4 inch seams. Chain stitching triangles may save you time [Figure 9]. Trim the corners [Figure 10]. Press the seams to the darker fabric [Figure 11].
4. Sew the squares into a row and press each seam to the darker fabric [Figure 12].
5. Sew the rows into blocks [Figure 13] and press the completed block [Figure 14]. Again, press to the darker fabric when possible.
6. Trim the finished block to 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 inches square.
Sometimes blocks turn out how you planned, and sometimes they don't. Kelley [Figure 15] and Samantha [Figure 16] didn't intend for these blocks to look like this! As I see it, you have a couple of options when you make an error. One is to smile at your new creation, give it a name, and put it in your quilt. Another option is to smile at your new creation, set it aside, and try again.
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| Fig. 15. Kelley's Star | Fig. 16. Samantha's Original Block |
Kelley's "mistake" is a beautiful part of her "Summer Meadows" quilt and the block design bears her name. I love the pointy look of Samantha's original block. If it were my creation, I think I would name it "Alligator Back."